{"product_id":"og-jumperless","title":"OG Jumperless","description":"\u003ch1\u003eOG Jumperless\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch5\u003ethe original jumperless breadboard\u003c\/h5\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/_k0aKM68Xl4?si=53SvDcqBcHOSZHmN\" title=\"YouTube video player\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e \u003cbr\u003eWhat is it?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing a bunch of analog crosspoint switches wired together into one bigger switch, this breadboard makes real, hardware connections between any points on the board or the Arduino Nano header at the top via software command, instead of needing to use jumper wires.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJumperless also has a ton of voltage\/current sensing so the RGB LEDs underneath each row can show a ton of information about what's going on with your circuit. 2 buffered high-current DACs (one 0-5V and one ±8V), 4 buffered and level-shifted 12-bit ADCs (3 are 0-5V and 1 for ±8V), 2 INA219 current and voltage measurement ICs, and 5 GPIO to simulate digital signals that can be routed to anywhere on the breadboard or the Arduino Nano header (also broken out to the top left corner for doing other things.)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUse it to probe the pins on an unknown IC, or for some automated fuzzing, or to read\/write EEPROM chips, or to help guide you through converting a schematic to a real circuit, or do whatever the hell you want with it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe connections are real and fully analog (-8V to +8V, up to around 1 MHz before signal quality starts to degrade) instead of cheating with some measure-then-simulate setup, although you can do that too if you want to simulate a memristor or to send jumpers over the internet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4 style=\"text-align: center;\"\u003eThere's also a \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/discord.gg\/bvacV7r3FP\"\u003eDiscord server\u003c\/a\u003e\n\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003ch5\u003eGo there, hang out, and get any questions you have answered. I'll be posting updates about production and stuff there too.\u003c\/h5\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003eControlling the thing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003ch5\u003eProbe mode is now a thing, so you can make connections by just touching rows. \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=c_o6K9yv4-0\"\u003eCheck it out\u003c\/a\u003e \u003c\/h5\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI include a probe kit in the box so you can assemble your own. If you're not comfortable with soldering, let me know and I will assemble it for you. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou can also make connections using \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/wokwi.com\/\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eWokwi\u003c\/a\u003e while running the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/github.com\/Architeuthis-Flux\/Jumperless\/releases\/latest\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eJumperless Wokwi Bridge\u003c\/a\u003e app on your computer. It's command line interface that automatically pulls any changes you make to your Wokwi project (both connections and Arduino code) and sends them to the Jumperless. It also checks for firmware updates and will automatically keep your Jumperless firmware up to date. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGet the app with \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e$ pip install jumperless\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ethen run it with\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e$ jumperless\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe commands are really simple and human readable so you can even just type in connections via any serial terminal you like.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor example, sending \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp style=\"padding-left: 40px;\"\u003ef  {then Enter} (to tell the Jumperless to accept connections)\u003cbr\u003e1-2, 5-6, SUPPLY_5V-8\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eover any serial monitor you like would connect row 1 to row 2, etc. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou can even have the Arduino Serial.print() that string (you don't even need an \u0026lt;enter\u0026gt; between f and the connections, a space will work too so \"f 1-2,2-4,\") the Jumperless will make those connections.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=beRxXDAUD9E\"\u003eHere's a demo of an Arduino sending connections to the Jumperless over serial\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt also passes through all the serial communications to and from the Jumperless so you can use the text-based menus to do things like running the wave generators, measuring current\/voltage, and looking debug output on the Jumperless directly at the same time.Jumperless shows up as 2 USB devices, so you can connect the second one to the Arduino Nano and flash the firmware and communicate via Serial through one USB cable as if they were both plugged in separately. You can also route the UART Tx and Rx lines anywhere and talk to things just like you would with one of those cheap USB-Serial boards. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eDACs\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt uses MCP4822 2 channel SPI DAC, which is fast enough to make waveforms well above 40KHz. This is the one thing the OG Jumperless has on the V5, it uses an SPI DAC which is much better for generating waves.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe DACs are buffered through an LM272D High Power (1A) op amp. The +-8V DAC output is hardwired to one of the 2 INA219 current\/voltage sensors so you can always see how much current is being drawn. The other INA219 is routable anywhere on the breadboard.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eFor synth\/music people\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat's especially relevant for you guys are the DACs and ADCs. One output of the MCP4822 12-bit SPI DAC is level shifted with a beefy power op amp to +-8V and the other to 0-5V.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe ADCs are the built in (12-bit, 500Ksps) ones from an RP2040, double buffered and level shifted to the 0-3.3V the RP2040 can handle. One of them is shifted to read +-8V, the other 3 are 0-5V.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePower supplies\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe switch on the upper left controls the rail voltages, if you look at the side of the building in the logo, you'll see the settings; +-8V, 5V, and 3.3V. If you set it to +-8V, the top positive rail will be ~+8V and the bottom positive rail will be ~-8V. Otherwise, they will both be the same, either 5V or 3.3V. The negative rails are permanently tied to Ground.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch5\u003eIf you don't love it for whatever reason, I accept returns indefinitely, even if you got a kit and built it yourself, or sawed it in half and lit both halves on fire. Just send it back and I'll issue a full refund.\u003c\/h5\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Architeuthis Flux","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43816108654628,"sku":"sku-47131324580089","price":169.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0714\/9839\/9780\/files\/JumperlessCropLights.jpg?v=1773812453","url":"https:\/\/electroeshop.com\/products\/og-jumperless","provider":"Electroeshop","version":"1.0","type":"link"}